When the French philosopher Jean Baudrillard made his first visit to New York, he was shocked by a sight that seemed to epitomize all that was wrong with this capital of the postmodern world - "a certain solitude like no other," the spectre of adults eating meals all by themselves.

"It is the saddest sight in the world," he remarked. "Sadder than destitution, sadder than the beggar is the man who eats alone in public.

"Nothing more contradicts the laws of man or beast, for animals always do each other the honour of sharing or disputing each other's food. He who eats alone is dead."